After a good days kayaking, there is no problem in just deflating, giving it a quick wipe down and re-packing whilst still wet. Especially as you are probably starving and are keen to indulge in a few cold ones.

General Maintenance:

General care of your kayak can be broken into two parts depending on how often you intend to be out on the water.

If you are out for several days and are in the water daily, or at least regular for a period of time.

• A quick wash down with fresh water, if available, especially if you have been in the sea.

• A quick wipe down at the end of the day and dry as best you can, then repacking whilst still wet or damp will not cause any problems.

Once you have finished kayaking and do not intend to go out again for a week or longer, then a more thorough regime is needed.

If you have the time – or the inclination after you have finished, or at least the next day, ensure you follow the next series of steps, or something similar:

Note: NEVER USE STRONG DETERGENTS (ACID, TRICHLORETHYLENE, MINERAL SPIRIT) OR SILICONE-BASED PRODUCTS TO CLEAN YOUR INFLATABLE KAYAK.

• Only use small amounts in plenty of water of light detergent like dish washing detergent, or products specifically made for the job bought from specialist shops to remove stubborn stains.

• Unpack, if the next day and lay out on the ground. Then wash with fresh water especially if you have been in seawater. Rub down with a rag or soft brush and remove any debris such as seaweed, algae, sun cream, etc.

• Check all the nooks and crevices especially along the side chambers and floor for any sand and grit.

Note: Partial inflation of the side chambers and floor will help.

• Ensure valves are closed whilst you wash off the hull and inside. Any moisture getting inside the chambers could cause mildew to form and reduce the life of your kayak.

• Dry the Kayak as best as you can with a towel. Then let it dry naturally, preferably in the sun to ensure it is completely dry.

• Once cleaned and dried roll up and pack back into the storage bag.

Storage:

Wherever you store your kayak, ensure that it is in a cool, dry place preferably where there is some air flow, if stored in the garage.

If you do store your kayak in the garage or in a shed ensure it is safe from rodents. They can chew the material or even make a nest in amongst it.

Summary:

Ensuring that your kayak is clean, washed and thoroughly dried before packing away for an extended period, and ensuring that it is stored in a safe dry place, will ensure you will have years of faithful service and enjoyment when using your inflatable kayak.

Whilst Inflatable Kayaks are very robust and will take alot of abuse whilst in the water, and generally give you years of trouble free paddling, there are some precautions to observe.

These precautions are generally observed during the inflation and entering the water phase.

General Inflations Tips:

• Before inflating your kayak, first check to if there are any seats, footrests, skegs, or other accessories that need to be fitted prior to inflation.

• Ensure you know of and follow any chamber inflation sequence.

• Ensure you inflate the chambers to their recommended maximum pressure. Ensure you know this pressure, it will be included in the manual and usually printed on the kayak chamber next to the inflation valve. Be aware also of the units that the pressure is in, usually it will be in pounds per square inch – PSI or in BAR. Ensuring yu are using the correct units will prevent over inflation and structural damage to the kayak.

• Most pumps, hand or electric will have a pressure gauge fitted. If, however you do not have an air gauge then inflate the chambers until they are firm, but not solid like a football. If you slap the side of the chamber it should sound like a drum.

Note: When using a hand pump try not to use your arm and back muscles to pump the kayak, as these muscles will tire quickly. Try using your leg muscles in a squat like movement. You may find this abit awkward at first but it will save sore arms and back muscles before you even start paddling.

General Precautions Before Entering The Water.

• Try and get all personal admin completed prior to inflating your kayak, e.g. having lunch, getting wet suit on, etc. This will prevent you leaving your kayak in the sun for long periods prior to launching in the water.

• If a fully inflated kayak is left exposed in the hot sun for long periods, of more than say 5 minutes, then damage can occur due to the air in the chambers heating up and expanding. This expansion will cause the pressure in the chambers to increase with structural damage following.

• In extreme situations the seal between the chambers can burst and cause two chambers to effectively become one.

• If an inflated kayak is to be left out of the water for a prolonged period, either leave in the shade or even better release the pressure in the chambers thus allowing any expansion to be allowed without any damage. Be aware that once the kayak is then put in the water the cool water acting on the chambers will cause the pressure in the chambers to decrease. So the kayak may need to be reinflated before setting out.

• Try to inflate the kayak next to the waters edge so that the kayak does not have to dragged accross the ground.

• Always try and lift the kayak clear of the ground, so it is advisable for two people to carry them into the water, especially the larger tandem kayaks.

• The material of a modern inflatable kayak is very rugged, but damage can occur over time by repeatedly being dragged over sharp stones, rocks, or coral etc.

Most inflatable kayaks today will inflate and deflate quickly and easily. There are, however, some simple points to bear in mind during the inflation phase, that will make things a little easier and will prevent damage to your kayak.

• Whenever you start to inflate your kayak, ensure before hand that you know the sequence/procedure. For example, some kayaks will need to have some accessories fitted prior to inflation such as seats, foot rests, etc. If you don’t know or are unsure it could mean you waste time by having to deflate the kayak again, to fit these accessories.

• Ensure you know how to use the air valves. These valves come in a couple of types, usually branded. Generally, though, they will operate in a similar way.

• The main type is called a ‘Boston Valve’. This consists of a one-way valve with two caps. Take off or unscrew the top cap and you will be able to fill the boat up with air. The valve lets air in, but won’t let any air escape.

• When you want to let out all the air out of the boat, you simply remove both caps, usually by unscrewing the bottom cap. This will take away the one-way system and the air will rush out.

Note: Most pumps used specifically for inflating kayaks are dual action. This means that you can use it to inflate and deflate. If you use the pump to deflate you will get much more air out of the kayak, so making folding up and repacking the kayak into the carry bag much easier.

• Make sure you know the maximum pressures that must be used for each of the inflation chambers. There may also be a sequence that the inflation chambers need to be inflated in.

• The pressures of the chambers will normally either be in pounds per square inch (PSI) or in Bar. Be careful you are using the correct units on the pump gauge.

• The chambers will only need a relatively low inflation pressure an example being:

Main Chambers    2.25 psi

Floor        1.00 psi

Note: This is only a guide, check with your manufacturer’s handbook as these pressure may vary.

• It is best only to use a Bellows Foot Pump or a Double Action Hand Pump.

• Avoid using Electric Compressors, CO2 Charge, or a Compressed Air Charge. These could quite quickly overcharge the chambers and damage to the chambers could result.

Even with the most modern, best puncture resistant materials of today, you will, at some point suffer from a leaking inflation chamber. Either from a collision or from repeatedly dragging your kayak across sharp, abrasive material such as sand or grit.

This is not the end of the world, however, this is par for the course, unfortunately, in the inflatable kayaking world. In most cases it will be a slow leak, a tiny pinprick of a scratch that will drive you crazy trying to find.

Most leaks are on the bottom where the kayak has struck something or has grounded. Sometimes they are in the cockpit where you have damaged it somehow. There are a couple ways of finding this leak:

• Fully inflate your kayak and listen with your ear very close all over the boat, while letting the sensitive skin of your face feel for the air escaping.

• If the water is warm and you have a dive mask take your kayak on the water and look for air bubbles streaming from the hole.

• Filling the cockpit with water and looking for bubbles is one way of detecting the hole in this area.

• If you do not have access to water where you can float the kayak, one of the best ways to find the leak is to fill a tub with soapy water. Then apply all over the kayak with a sponge. The leaking pinhole will produce soap bubbles quite readily.

Ensure that once you have found the leak you mark it with a suitable marker or pen.

You must let the kayak dry fully or at least the area that has the leak before starting the process of patching.

The process of applying the patch is the same, more or less for all inflatable kayaks.

• Ensure that your patch kit is suitable for the material of your kayak. If it came with the kayak you are fine, but if you have created your own repair kit, contact the manufacturer or a reputable shop to ensure that the materials you are using are compatible. Vinyl and PVC have a different type of glue than those kayaks made of hypalon or nitrolon.

• Cut the patch so that it is a good fit and not too small. Ensure the patch is circular for best results, as a square patch will easily start to lift at the corners.

• Rough both surfaces, the patch and the kayak with sand paper.

• Apply the glue to both surfaces, ensuring that the glue area on the kayak is bigger than the size of the patch. Allow the glue to dry for about 5 minutes. Then apply the patch.

Note: There will be no time to position the patch, once you apply the patch that is it, it’s stuck. So ensure you take your time when applying the patch.

• If the hole is larger, say a rip, then the size of the patch needs to be much larger to allow for the increased stress that the repair will be under. The glue bond will have to be perfect for the same reason so take extra care.